All posts filed under: Jaffa, July 2004

Homeward Bound

Jaffa, July 2004 / travel

So I’m the only one in the First Class of El Al’s flight 007 to JFK. (Modern times sure bring us odd-looking integers and initials, don’t they?) I sleep on the floor on a futon for a week and a half, covered with an old red comforter with pink stitching, and I learn to walk down the dusty street past the construction equipment, and the butcher’s shop getting ready for the day’s business with loud […]

Candle-lighting time in Jaffa

Jaffa, July 2004

Tis after my farewell dinner with M, and the main room has been swept and adjusted for the arrival of Gil so that he and M can go over the upcoming tapings for the weekend TV show. Dafna has turned on the red hanging lamp, and lit candles all over the bureau. I snuggle in the corner with lots of pillows, and Fluffy the Laptop. I flatly refuse to acknowledge that I leave tomorrow, and […]

Jaffa, almost midnight

Jaffa, July 2004

One of the last nights that I’ll spend here in my room in M and C’s house. I will miss having a courtyard. I will miss jackdaws instead of crows. I will miss the goats in the neighborhood, and the chickens and the cats and the pony. Not so much the roosters, though. Nor the mosque. Did I tell you about the mosque up the street? No? Well, then… First off, I don’t dislike it […]

Jaffa List, part 2

Jaffa, July 2004

jellyfish stranded at the high water line Muslim wedding receptions with men and women at separate restaurants the tribe of goats that meanders down the street, eating the leaves from the trees that they can reach heat not minding the heat so much anymore


Jaffa, July 2004

The afternoon of Shabbat spent on the beach in Jaffa: just me and a couple of hundred of the people whose acts I’ve been decrying in this blog, as if they’re a people of only one mind and opinion. I still decry those actions. But I can no longer see all Arabs in the same simplistic light as before. I meandered up and down the beach among children and adults building sand castles, flying a […]

Jaffa beach

Jaffa, July 2004

Twenty minutes to Shabbat. Friends came to spend Shabbat with us all, and we spent the late afternoon at the beach at Jaffa. M pointed something out as we sat there, getting sunburned: we were the only Jews there. People in Tel Aviv, about 10 minutes away, refuse to come to this beach because they’re terrified of the Arabs. Some friends in Tel Aviv won’t even come to M and C’s house in Jaffa because […]

Jaffa List

Jaffa, July 2004

The shouk this morning in Jaffa, and all the stuff it had out for sale: several top halves of mannequins huge copper pots, pre-tarnished for your convenience damp, mildewy looking rugs stacked like a cord of wood third-hand furniture, in the same condition but unstacked hubbly-bubblies swarm upon swarm of cats, who seem to travel in packs that revolve around the local dumpster the Afloka restaurant across the street, without which I’d have starved by […]